February 23, 2012

A new fella is making himself at home with me...

As you can see, I am not always alone in my room now. Doña Rebeca left on a trip out of town this week, and Charli has taken advantage of her absence to go check out the other mujeres here in the posada. So far I'm leading his pack.



ADHD Paradise + Maestro Fútbol

This place is a paradise for an ADHD gringa. I literally NEVER know what I'm going to find when I step out the front door of my posada. My most important lessons so far: Don't have too many expectations and just go with the flow... never EVER go anywhere without my camera... and keep it charged at all times.
Just last Friday morning, I thought I was headed to "my" Cyber around the corner to hook up... but it was closed. So I hoofed it to another cyber place a few blocks away... where they were nice enough, but I couldn't get into their system. (No surprise. The only reason I get into "my" place's system is because Marea Elena lets me pull the connection out of one of her computers and stick it into my laptop.)
OK... so now I was only 3 blocks from Carlo and Lety's casa (Ashley's parents... the very first family I met here) and I knew they wouldn't mind if I sat outside on their patio and used their internet. (The password was already on a post-it note on my keyboard)... Sure enough it worked and I collected my email.
After 20 minutes Ashley's brother Ivanhue (who teaches at the same school as his mom is principal now) arrived. He was off from work, and headed to the bank. I asked if I could snag a ride, since I was tired of schelpping my computer around.
Sure... but first we stopped by the fútbol field, because his wife Abigail was supposed to be cooking posole for... the tournament where the maestros and maestras had been competing in intramural soccer, basketball and volleyball for two afternoon. (¿?... I'm never really sure of days and schedules here!)
But I was in time to catch the final round of the men teachers' soccer tournament... complete with wonderful fresh ceviche,
tacos con frijoles, posole, and this fabulous grilled fish... There was meat too, but I passed on that. (I didn't pass on the beer.) What an afternoon!


The picture at the bottom is of Alicia 'Licha' the maid at Doña Rebeca's (my posada, where I started out from) with her son... who was, along with captain Javier Santana (from La Prepa... Moscow turtle trippers will know him) on the winning team!


Los sonidos exoticos de Tomatlán



[The Exotic Sounds of Tomatlán...
[ENGLISH at bottom]

Un día, cuando regrese a Tomatlán, querría hacer una película aquí. El sonido va a incluir muchos sonidos extravagantes y fantásticos. Tal vez para ustedes son normales, pero para mí los sonidos diarios son muy exóticos.

Por ejemplo, yo nunca antes había vivido con gallos por vecinos. Aquí, hay un montón de ellos. A todas horas del día o de la noche, por aquí, por allá, en todos partes hay los cacareos de gallos. Se desafían uno al otro, cantando su machismo. Un día en casa en Moscow Idaho, yo querría tener unas gallinas. Pero no es legal poseer gallos en mi ciudad por lo de los sonidos. A mí me gustan mucho por lo cantadores. He notado que cada uno tiene una voz clara y distinta de los otros. A mí no me quita el sueño, pero a muchos de mis amigos en Moscow, necesitarían llevar tapones para los oídos. Y tengo una pregunta: ¿Duermen bien, todos los mexicanos ?

En la tranquilidad temprana de la mañana, mientras los ciudadanos ya está dormidos, los cacareos de gallos se unen al ritmo metálico de las tortillerías, adonde las maquinas comienzan hacer las tortillas del día. En mi ciudad no hay ninguna tortillería, entonces no hay ese sonido.

El año pasado, viví frente de una escuela. A las ocho de la mañana, ponían música, el Himno nacional, después se escuchaba la voz de la directora, o de algún niño recitando en el altavoz. No ocurre en mi pueblo. ¡Es demasiado frío y todos los niños y maestros están adentros!

También puedo oír la música Mexicana, a todo volumen, de un radio de coche o camioneta… y justo después, los cascos de un caballo, un sonido raro en mi ciudad, adonde los caballos no compartan las calles con automóviles.

¡Se oye también! al hombre que vende el gas! Los bebés conocen este ruido antes del nacimiento ¿sí? Y los anuncios por jitomates… verduras… escobas… sillas… y la camioneta de reciclaje, anunciando el precio por aluminio, etcétera.

¡Todo saben cuando El Circo llega! Un pequeño coche con gran altavoz paso lentamente hasta cada calle anunciando todos los números maravillosos que verán.

A varios tiempos suenan las campanas de las dos iglesias aquí. Pero los tonos y ritmos son diferentes. ¿Qué significa? Yo no sé. ¿Hay solo una persona diferente que está jalando las sogas? En Moscow hay campanas en la iglesia metodista y en el edificio principal de la universidad, pero son operadas por computadoras. Los sonidos son mecánicos y siempre el mismo. ¡Que aburrido!

Tomatlán tiene su propio ciclo de sonidos comerciales, incluyendo los de los puertas correderas de metal, que deslizándose de arriba hacía abajo… en las mañanas, a las horas de las siestas, y en las noches. En Moscow esas puertas no existen.

Me gusta mucho sentarme en la estupenda plaza del Santo Santiago en la mañana y escuchar el jaleo de los grandes pájaros negros en las palmeras altas.

Los domingos en la misa temprana, me gusta mucho el coro de los niños. Habitualmente cantan en unísono y hay mas campanitas que acompañan a las terminaciones de las frases.

Pero mi sonido favorito de todo aquí es uno de los mas tranquilos. Acabó de aprender que significa. Muy temprano en las mañanas, oigo el “beso beso” de las besuconas. Es la pequeña lagartija rosa que vislumbro a veces cuando enciendo la luz en la noche. Ella se escabulle arriba de la pared, detrás del refrigerador, o se aferra a permanecer inmóvil en el techo. Se dice que cada una come un montón de insectos. Para mí, el sonido es especial también porque significa que estoy en un clima demasiado calido. Las casas pueden estar abiertas por el clima. Las puertas, ventanas y los aleros de la casa no se necesitan para impedir el paso de la nieve y el frío del invierno. Entonces estos animales pueden entrar y salir así viven aquí.

Ahora, cuando me despierto en la mañana y oigo el “beso beso” yo digo, “Buen día chiquitito.” “¡Ándale, por favor, y come un gran desayuno!”

Quizá pienses que soy poquito loca. Pero de seguro que a ustedes los sonidos de mi pueblo les parecerían igualmente extraños, especialmente con la ausencia de los suyos sonidos normales de Tomatlán. Entonces, tal vez sea bueno traer unos sonidos de mi ciudad para ustedes, en mi película, cuando la haga. Y la llamaré “Los sonidos de los dos pueblos.”

Jeanne Leffingwell es artista y escritora y visita Tomatlán en los inviernos.

ENGLISH: Basically, I'm describing all the cool sounds here, like scores and scores of roosters sounding off any hour of the day or night... the sounds of all the guys selling things in the streets, from gas to brooms to strawberries... the commercial sounds, like the distinctive souns of the tortilla-making machines... And finally my favorite: the kissing sound this little guy in the picture makes. These tiny lizards come and go as they please in and out of all the houses, and most people consider them good luck because they eat tons of insects.

Somebody thought my story was interesting enough to publish in the local paper (just yesterday) so if you want to know the rest, you'll need to find someone who reads Spanish - or keep studying yourself!

February 19, 2012

Jeanne's upcoming teaching gig in Puerto Vallarta

If you happen to be in Puerto Vallarta the first week of March this year, you’re invited to my beading class at the International Friendship Club. Don ‘t worry, it will be in English. This is how I’m earning a few pesos, to subsidize beads and projects with some Mexican students, maestras and friends who have less discretionary income.

The IFC promo follows:

“All you dog- and cat-lovers will be delighted! Artist Jeanne Leffingwell returns to the IFC to teach a 2-session beading class. This time she will bring all the supplies needed* for you to make a dog or cat collar for a beloved mascota. Choose from Jeanne’s designs, or make up your own.


The first week she’ll get you started - no experience necessary - and the second week you’ll learn how to finish and attach your beadwork onto the collar. If you prefer, you can make a bracelet or anklet, for yourself and/or friends. (No pet necessary.)

You should plan to spend some time on your project in-between sessions.

Jeanne will also have beads and looms available for purchase.




Cost: 500 pesos both days (a few pesos more if your dog has a HUGE neck)

Thursdays, March 1 & 8, 2012

1:30-3:30 p.m.

* Not included is the collar to attach your beading to. Any good quality leather, or nylon webbing base will work, in a size to fit your pet. These are easily purchased in Vallarta.

February 15, 2012

Vistas favoritas de Tomatlán



Aquí son dos de mis vistas favoritas en Tomatlan #1 Hay una escalera cerca de la escuela primaria ‘Tenochtitlan’. Me gusta mucho la vista de la cumbre.



#2 La escalera, de bajo. #3 & 4 La plaza de la iglesia Santo Santiago, cual es un de la más anciena en Jalisco, y pienso en el país. Yo paseo dentro la plaza cada día.

[I don’t have my dictionary with me so there may be problems with that paragraph.)



Here are 2 of my favorite views around Tomatlán: the stairs near the Tenoctitlan primary school (where I first did the bead residency accompanied by a translator and 5 students from Moscow High School.) Views from the top and bottom.

When I first came, the stairs were just being built and there were no plantings.

The other photos show the plaza of the Santo Santiago church, one of the oldest Christian churches standing in Jalisco, if not the country (I’m checking on this...) I pass through it at least once a day.

February 14, 2012

Javier, 5 years later and still multitasking




These first 2 pictures of Javier Landázuri are from 5 years ago, my first solo trip to Tomatlán. It was only my second week in Mexico, ever. With only an adventurous desire to immerse myself in the language, and SPAN 101 from the U of Idaho under my belt... Once I arrived, I felt I was on Mars. I understood maybe 1% of what I heard around me.
To hear someone at the corner internet place ask me in English, "Where are you from?" and then, "Moscow? Oh I've been there," was a sudden blessing.
Javier had previously been on the Turtle trip/Intercambio to Moscow. He also lived in the US for awhile after that. For me, being able to ask some questions in English was immensely helpful that first month. And he turned into my go-to guy for all things internet. I remember... there was always a lo-o-o-o-ong line waiting for his expertise, and so "just 5 minutes" for Javier could mean 5 hours for me. All the same, I will never forget his helpfulness.
The next four winters, I saw little of him. His brother Paco seemed to be in charge of Punto Internet.
Until yesterday, when Javier greeted me in the Supermercado Colmena. He introduced me to his bright and lovely esposa, Julia. And further surprise...they are expecting their first baby in October!
Not a surprise: They both multi-task muchisimo. They own and manage Julia's internet business and Javier's five tiendas, which right now requires traveling every weekday between Tomatlán and Morelos, where they live. I think they are both aware that things will need to slow down a bit come October...
Meantime, Morelos is quite close to Pérula, the wonderful beach, so I made plans to snag a ride down with them one day soon.
Javier says hello to Lee Anne E. and all his Moscow friends!

February 11, 2012

Lluvia / Rain, anyone?




After this I’ll post another of my little stories in Spanish.

But first I’ll show you a couple pictures of my interesting day so far…

To start, one great thing was having a WARM shower in la dueña’s bathroom. My first since Vallarta (warm, not shower!) 3 weeks ago. Especially good because it’s been raining for the past 3 days. The electricity has been cutting in and out today. So when I head to my ‘Cyber’ around the corner, I hope it will be ‘on’. I just learned that these winter season rains are called “cabañuelas.”

Anyway, as you can see, they mean business. I should have taken more pictures out in it, because this one with me trying to cross the steps to the beautiful Santo Santiago church plaza, shows only the beginning. On my way home from errands, I had to cross many flooded streets. Picking my route became more important than documenting it - or dropping my camera in the deluge.

After I got home and took off my shoes, I made a great little hot feast for myself in the dueña’s kitchen. Where I also met 2 new visitors, her niece and granddaughter, Grecia (behind) and Airy shown here with Alba.

This is only the 2nd time I’ve experienced rain here in the winter in Tomatlán. I hope we aren’t starting some new trend…

February 10, 2012

Las Golondrinas de la Calle Galeana en Tomatlán


I recently sent in this short article to the local paper paper, Opiniones. I'm sure my Spanish is full of errors, but if you'd like to try reading it, here it is: (Corrections to my Spanish are welcome!) Just copy in my mistakes, and then your improvements.

Los Golondrinas y yo

¡Hola¡ Traigo saludos de Moscow Idaho. Como las golondrinas, he regresado a mi sitio maravilloso en Tomatlán Jalisco. No se saben por cierto porque los pájaros eligen posarse aquí en la ciudad sobre la Calle Galeana cada invierno. Pero yo sé exactamente porque estoy aquí. Porque hace calor, los ciudadanos son muy afectuosos a esa extranjera, y puedo continuar aprender y practicar su idioma hermosa.

Es el sexto vez he venido. El primera vez vine por solo una semana en junio, para hacer un parte de mi proyecto, “Millón de chaquira” con los alumnos de la primaria Tenochtitlan. No hablé nunca español, pero me enamoraba con la cultura mexicana. Desde entonces, cada año he ahorrado mis pesos por comprar un billete por regresar en el invierno. Aunque no poseo mi propio casita, me da la sensación de queTomatlán es mi segundo pueblo.

Para mi las golondrinas son especiales por otro razón también. En mi segunda visita, cuando trataba leer este periódico, Opiniones (muy despacio porque necesitaba buscar cada palabra en mi diccionario) me puse muy curiosa cuando leí un articulo y miré un foto de... ¿pajaros? Pregunté mi buena amiga Luli Castillo “¿qué son?” y ella me acompañaba al lugar por verlas. Fue la primera vez que yo aprendí una cosa muy interesante ¡por leer en español! Pienso que así las golondrinas, tengo una vista de la puebla que es poquito diferente. Espero que a ustedes le gusta oír de mis impresiones.

Tengo otros amigos en Moscow quienes estudian español también, y un día quiero llevar con unos de ellos. Por introducir a ellos varios individuales y eventos de Tomatlán y la región, he enviado unos fotos de aquí en mi website. Si visitan www.jeanneleffingwell.com y suscribirse a “What’s Up / my blog” pueden verlas. Tal vez vean fotos de sus familiares y familia.

Ahorita, deseo agradecer a todos por su amistad afable. ¡Me amo Tomatlán!

English synopsis: These swallows just appear every year in Tomatlán sometime in February. For years and years they've been coming. They roost for the night in one particular block over the main street. Some years there are more of them, some less. They will be staying for a few weeks. This year, they showed up for the season the same day (more or less?) that I did. Just at dusk (about 7:00) they fly in every evening, and 12 hours later, like clockwork, with the dawn, they take off. It's really cool to watch them coming and going, but at night they are motionless. Unless you look up you don't know they are there.

Of course the locals here know this, so this isn't actually a synopsis. I wrote that for me they are special because the 2nd time I came, I only learned about them by trying to read the local paper (way hard at the time!) and getting intrigued by a photo. I asked my friend Luli about the photo and she took me to see them. So it was the first adventure I ever had because I READ something in Spanish!


February 9, 2012

Alba, Shark & Gordo waiting...


"OK !Adelante! y mostrarnos unas de tus fotos!"
de acuerdo de mis vecinos, Alba, Shark and Gordo.
La mas grande de los dos perros es Alba y ella es la de mi dueña Rebeca. El otro es el de mi vecina Sandi, una estudiante. El gato 'Gordo' vive con Alba y Rebeca, pero él me visite frequentemente.

(Alba is the Chihuahua-Schnauzer mix, Shark the full-blooded chihuahua, and Gordo the cat. 'Get going and show us some of your pictures!' they are saying. "We've heard enough!"
PS If you click on the picture, it will enlarge.
PPS Por favor, anyone who knows better, ¡corige mi español! Gracias...